Saturday, December 18, 2010


Leg 44, from Eastholm to the Ritz. The great adventure enters its second winter.







Rock formations along this coast are unlike those anywhere else on the island. In one area colorful undulating formations emerge from smooth pebble beaches and around the next bend
big jagged pieces from nearby cliffs litter the shore
Just offshore, my two daughters, then about ten and fifteen, and I paddled out from the south shore of Winter harbor to one of the Hen Islands and spent the night in a tent perched high on the rocks overlooking Penobscot Island. In the morning I cooked scrambled eggs, home fires and kielbasa.









About thirty years ago I made the acquaintance of Phil Boster. At the time he owned the Ritz. He was a great guy. He's buried nearby under a stone that identifies him as 'Keeper of the Cove'.





Next leg, 45, from the Ritz to Starboard Rock, maybe into the Priviledge.





















Leg 44, from Eastholm to the Ritz. The great adventure enters its second winter. Rock formations along this coast are unlike those anywhere else on the island. In one area colorful undulating formations emerge from the smooth pebble beaches and around the next bend big jagged pieces hewn from the nearby cliffs litter the shore. Just off shore, high up on a ledge on one of the Hen Islands my daughters and I spent a memorable night camping.















Sunday, December 12, 2010

Leg 43, from Carl Ames' Farm to Eastholm.











I was looking forward to this walk like no other. This was really remote territory to me. I'd never spent any time whatever at this extremity of Calderwood Neck and I was looking forward to rounding Thayer Point and discovering a shore I'd only seen from the water and only once or twice in my lifetime.






























The shore just around Thayer Point was stunning, just rocks and ledges but in such magnificent arrangements.

































Standing on this outcrop of stone so completely worn that its edges were like razors, I had to zoom in to the area beneath my feet to try and capture the degree to which this extraordinary erosion had taken place. Looking down the beach a way the same feathery formation emerges from the rubble.



















This fellow seems to have built on a pretty solid foundation.








































Next leg, 44, from Eastholm toward Starboard Rock. I hope to be off the Neck by the end of the year.




Sunday, November 28, 2010












Leg 42, from Polly cove to the old Carl Ames Farm

















The characteristics of this northwest facing shore of Polly's Cove are a little different than the opposit east facing shore and, as I proceed farther east, toward Thayer Point, it is markedly so.


This white sand beach was a stunning surprise. How could I have lived here all my life and not known?


It's right in front of a private residence so access is limited but still - it's certainly been here as long as I have. What have I been doing with my life?



Calderwood Neck, all of Vinalhaven for that matter is criss-crossed with old stone walls. Fields needed to be cleared of rocks while animals and pasture land had to be segregated so it made sense to build walls. Now and then though, there were just too many rocks, more than needed to build walls. Here they were just thrown over the edge.











There are more and more interesting rock formation and mineral deposits as I continue east on this shore. A little research leads me to think these white streaks may be deposits of feldspar crystals, a product of volcanic eruptions but I have friends who are geologists and who will correct me if necessary.

This is the area in front of the property formely known as Carl Ame's Farm. When I was very young the Farm was the landing strip for the old Harjula Flying Service. I haven't included a photo of the house, in keeping with my promise to keep such photos out of the blog but the field slopes pretty severely up toward the house and barn. The arriving plane generally approached in that direction, uphill, so the landing was very short. Likewise the take-off, travelling downhill and taking advantage of extra lift, was also shorter than might otherwise be the case. I can remember coming in here on a plane but I'm sure I was very young.
Next walk, leg 43, from Carl Ame's Farm to Eastholm.


Sunday, November 14, 2010


Leg 41, from Clam Cove to the head of Polly's Cove, November, 2010













It's hunting season. I must of been uncharacteristically quiet biking to my starting point. As I dismounted a flash of orange in the woods ahead alerted me to a hunter down on one knee taking aim across the cove. In a few minutes he wandered northerly away from me having not fired the shot I'd expected to hear.





I don't know what set of circumstances results in some Vinalhaven shores being so markedly different from others. It's tempting to say, in the case of this east shore of Carver's Cove with it's unobstructed exposure to the northeast that the winds make a difference and they certainly do. On the other hand, wind alone cannot account for the extremes of jagged rock. On the Thorofare, for example the same conditions are found on the north and west shores.



Here, at the head of Polly's Cove, the village of Stonington can be easily seen in the distance. When I was a kid Polly's Cove was a populat place to undertake 'shutting off' for herring. I lived in the Bucket, a legendary homestead down by the old ballground, during the fifties. Alfred Hall lived across the street. He was a very gentle soul, older than my own father. He and his brothers shut off Polly's cove regularly. I think they owned land at the head of the Cove. Now and then my family and his camped there. I remember a tent platform from which we looked straight out to Stonington.






















Here, as at the head of every cove on the island, there's a brook and here, after a big rainfall and at the base of a quick change in elevation that comprises most of the Eleanot Campbell Preserve, it was running with great enthusiasm.







Next leg, 42, from Polly's Cove to the Carl Ames Farm.














Tuesday, November 2, 2010







Leg 40, from Birch Point to Clam Cove.





































This is the only of my many walks during which I was accompanied. The Island Institute has asked me to write a circumambulation article for the Island journal (2011) and Peter Ralston tagged along to photograph me in my element, as it were.


Here, looking out toward Stonington and Widow's Island, I built a house for a summer couple I came to know and think a great deal of. Their architect called the house he designed for them a 'clamdigger's shack' but it was a very comfortable and practical one story cape. I was happy with it. Eventually they bought Widow Island and I did some work on the residence out there.











Eventually, too, they gave a big chunk of land to Acadia National Park.

On the highest point sits two of the three original water towers that served the half dozen residences on Calderwood Point back in the early 1900's. I hadn't been on this shore for ten years or so.






Back then I was impressed with the particularly tenacious oaks in residence. They'd selected the singularly most inhospitable spots on an equally unlikely shore to put down roots. I cut a trail for the owner over this land, from one end to the other, by the water towers and through this conclave of Oakes back to Clam Cove. During this walk the Oakes were no less determined but the old guard was clearly in decline.






Unlike nearly all the others, this Oak, with a very comfortable exposure, well protected from the northeast and prevailing winds, had retained all its fall foliage


I have to keep reminding myself to look up, at the treetop environment. Often, its worth it.
Next leg, this weekend perhaps, from Clam Cove back to Polly Cove, then out toward East holm.